Weingut Barbara Öhlzelt - Zöbinger 2021
Barbara Öhlzelt has been making wine in the village of Zöbing in Austria's Kamptal since 2004. She predominately farms Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from 6 hectares of vines in such prestigious sites as Heiligenstein (soils of primary rock, sandstone), Seeburg (slate, sand, clay) and Kogelberg (primary rock, granite, shale). The vast majority of vineyard work is done by hand and farmed along organic principles: Barbara never uses chemical treatments on her soils. She produces three levels of wine: a liter Grüner Veltliner; two village wines from both Grüner and Riesling; and her single vineyard wines from Seeberg, Heiligenstein and Kogelberg. Barbara's style is one of finesse and elegance over power, density and texture.
Öhlzelt's Zöbinger Grüner Veltliner is multi-vineyard village blend (from Zöbing) made from 20-60 year-old vines aged in acacia wood. In the glass, the wine shows a brilliant light lemon color with a shimmering green rim. The nose is a wonderful medley of quince, cucumber and subtle spice aromas that tickle the senses as they waft from the glass. On the palate, the wine shows incredible precision, balance and poise with a brisk, invigorating acidity and lean, angular body. Fine mineral notes join the stone and green fruit flavors as they flow into a persistent, refreshing finish. I love this wine for its nuance and grace; often Kamptal wines can be heavy-handed and extracted, but not here: it is like drinking from a cool mountain stream surrounded by a garden of wildflowers and an orchard of ripe summer fruits.