Azienda Agricola Anna Maria Abbona - 'Sori Dij But' Dolcetto di Dogliani 2021
The village of Dogliani is, for me, the mother church of Dolcetto. The soil and climate of Dogliani seem perfectly matched to the Dolcetto grape, and as a result, growers in the region plant Dolcetto in their best vineyard sites. Rooted in calcareous soil on precariously steep hillsides, this is where Dolcetto fully hits its stride. Many of Anna Maria Abbona's Dolcetto vines were planted by her grandfather, Angelo in the 1930's. In 1989, when Anna Maria and husband, Franco Schellino, moved back to her family's vineyard in Dogliani, they spent years learning how to farm their ancient vines, taught by Anna Maria's father and grandfather. Together, the generations passed down their accumulated knowledge to Anna Maria and Franco, who in turn are passing it along to their children.
Sorí Dij But is one of Anna Maria's single-vineyard Docletti; the impressively steep vineyard looks pretty much like the "coat of grapes" emblem on the label. (Perhaps the Abbona ancestors beat their swords into grape pruning knives - "make wine, not war"?). Anna Maria's Dogliani Sorí dij But is terrific, a wine that, thanks to first-class fruit and judicious use of oak in the cellar, manages to be both generous and serious at the same time. Jet black in color with killer nose of blackberries dusted with exotic spices. The wine is wonderfully fruity, a bowl of berries in a glass with a length and structure that are classic Dogliani; mineral, stony and super long. Ripe and round, yet loaded with tension and long on the palate. Enjoy with braised meats, anything off the grill and pizza.
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