From 35-year-old vines and boasting a jeweled red color, the 2020 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is ripe and fruity on the nose, with a lot of spice to balance it out, revealing notes of baked red cherries, leather, toasted cedar, pine, and menthol. Medium-bodied, it offers a lot of freshness on the palate, with fine, approachable tannins and good, even freshness and acidity. Compared to the Case Mate, it has a more linear feel and offers a clean stony texture and more orange citrus fruit. It feels very balanced, and while it has a stamp of oak spice, it's well-integrated. Give this another six months or so in bottle and drink it over the next 15 or more years.

The 2020 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is every bit as impressive as it was a year ago. It shows all of the strong exotic citrus and spice character I saw back then. On the palate, I find the 2020 a bit closed today, which is probably a good sign for its long-term prospects. This is certainly not an easygoing or open-knit 2020. Readers should plan on being patient. The Gavarini Chiniera is a Barolo of substance and presence.

Dense ruby color. Fresh floral character of roses and violets with pomegranate fruit, licorice and spices. On the palate there are velvety tannins, crisp acidity and a biting yet not dry finish. Medium-bodied and quite warming at the end. Drink from 2026.