Ettore Germano - Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2021

The Germano estate, founded in 1856 by Francis Germano, began as a wine-growing property. It quickly established itself as one of the premier wine-growing estates in all of Piedmont. Sergio's father, Ettore, was long recognized as a master grafter of the region. Producers all over the appellation paid him by the vine to replant their vineyards. So it comes as no surprise that Sergio has emerged as one of the best producers in Piedmont. After taking over in 1993, Sergio merged his formidable technical winemaking knowledge with his family's great terroir, old vines and incredible tradition, creating an estate that has become among the very best in Barolo.

Germano’s Barolo Serralunga cuvee blends four Grand Cru sites: Cerretta, the family's ancestral vineyard nestled just below the house where Sergio was born, along with Prapò, Lazzarito and Vigna Rionda. Prapò's sandier soils bring perfume and Cerretta's limestone brings grip, while the final two add depth and length. The season did the rest. Heavy winter snow refilled the water tables, followed by a dry, warm summer with cold September nights that preserved acidity and aromatics while the tannins reached full ripeness. Picking ran from late September into mid-October and the wines have the freshness and balance that mark a modern classic. The 2021 vintage is already being celebrated as exceptional, combining the powerful structure of 2019 with 2020’s rich fruit and charm. As the 2021 wines continue to develop, there is doubt the vintage will climb into legendary status.

In the glass, Sergio’s 2021 — deep ruby to the rim — possesses a nose that is high-toned and unmistakably Serralunga: black cherry, dried rose petal, black licorice and anise, with hints of cracked pepper, candied orange peel and crushed-stone underneath. The palate is medium- to full-bodied and velvety on entry, with ripe, fine-grained tannins and juicy acidity that keep it lively from start to finish. The finish is long, mineral and savory, with iron and tobacco lingering on the exhale. It's delicious now with a half-hour decant, though properly cellared, it will keep developing and improving for another 10 to 15 years.