Domaine Robert Ampeau - Pommard 1996

When I first started selling the wines from Domaine Robert Ampeau, it was a very different time in the wine business: grower champagne was a niche product, rosé was unsellable and most retailers couldn’t get enough of inky-black Parker-scored wines. But then, as now, the classics remain, like the market for mature, perfectly stored red and white Burgundy; a specialty of Robert and Michel Ampeau. The true magic of Ampeau is not only the extraordinary quality of their wines when young, but that the family takes on the extra cost of storing the wines and releasing them late, mature and drinking beautifully.

The wines of Domaine Ampeau are the perfect introduction for Corkscrew customers into the fascinating journey that wine makes on its evolution to maturity. Furthermore, they are the quintessence of perfect provenance in shipping and storing wine: without the proper care in the cellar and along the supply chain, these delicate treasures lose their subtlety, nuance and complexity.

By the time the doors of the Corkscrew opened in 1996, Michel Ampeau had already been running the domaine for his father Robert for a good 10 years. He changed virtually nothing in the vineyards and the cellar, keeping the traditional ways of his family, including aging over half a million bottles in their cold, dark cellars in Meursault.

Sadly, Michel had a stroke in 2014, losing his ability to work in the vines and the cellar. It’s been a long time since we’ve been able to offer any wine from the Ampeaus. Fortunately for Michel, many hours of physical therapy have paid off for his quality of life, and, luckily for our customers, have allowed him to hand label some of the bottles from his cellar…

This village Pommard is crafted with fruit from the Vaumuriens lieu-dit, though it isn’t indicated on the label. Faded ruby color with tawny highlights, the nose is deep and dark with aromas of spice cake, plum, mushroom and game. Pommard is known for producing powerful wines, and this does not disappoint. The palate has depth and richness, but is still light on its feet with flavors of black cherry, black tea and cranberry to compliment the earthy spice notes. Robust tannins and fresh acidity lead into a long and complex finish. There is lots life here, still going strong, though the wine will hold for another 10 years. Decant before serving, preferably through a mesh screen to catch any sediment. Amazing, especially for anyone who wants to experience a perfectly mature red Burgundy.