Château Valandraud - Virginie de Valandraud Blanc 2021

Leaders of the garagiste movement in Bordeaux, husband-and-wife team Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle Andraud founded Château Valandraud in 1989, when they used all their savings to purchase a 0.6-hectare plot in the Fongaban valley. In two years, they were able to procure the proper machinery and equipment and rented out a small garage to produce their first vintage of 100 cases. The reception to this upstart couple was somewhat icy: some of the powerful, long-established Bordeaux families saw this unconventional boutique winemaking as an affront to tradition.

Jean-Luc became known as the “bad boy” of the region, eschewing what everyone thought he “should” do or was “supposed” to do, and instead doing what he thought was right. At Valandraud, he and Murielle crafted big, bold wines that were lush, opulent and easy to approach in their youth, a stark counterpoint to the established style of austere and big, tannic reds of Bordeaux which sometimes took decades to mature. In 2003, the estate produced its first white wine and just two decades after their first vintage, Jean-Luc and Murielle’s young château was awarded First Growth status in Saint-Émilion in 2012. Today, they operate a modest estate of eleven hectares, yet they produce unabashedly, world-class wines.

While whites are not allowed to be classified in Saint-Émilion, Château Valandraud nonetheless makes extraordinary white wines. Their exquisite Virginie de Valandraud blanc — composed of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon — is sourced from 20-year-old vines grown on clay-limestone soils. The Virginie pours a shimmering pale yellow with light green reflections and offers hypnotic aromas of pear and white peach intertwined with pineapple and mango. These mouthwatering fruits are highlighted with notes of white flowers, crushed chalk and zested grapefruit and lime. The attack is focused and intense followed by a harmonious dance of orchard and tropical fruits, salted citrus and dazzling acidity. The mid-palate displays supple weight and a slight creaminess while simultaneously exhibiting incredible balance and complexity. The saline-laced finish is persistent and elegant. Drink now or cellar for the next 5-10 years.