Located in the southern Rhône Valley, Lirac is an appellation that makes some of the best examples of Grenache, usually blended with complementary grapes like Syrah, Mourvèdre and/or Cinsault, which add structure and complexity to the final blend. The grapes are harvested at low-yields and produce wines that are full-bodied, rich and spicy with great concentration. They are excellent representations of sunny, warm-climate viticulture and of the soils of red clay, sand and quartz pebbles in which they are grown. You may say, that sounds a lot like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the "King of the Rhône" and you wouldn't be wrong, as its reputation of supremacy is hardly a secret. Yet that is where the similarities end.

The shamefully overlooked region of Lirac is about one quarter the size of Châteauneuf and lies directly across the Rhône River from its more esteemed neighbor. And even though Lirac produces wines that are just as good as those opposite the river — at a fraction of the price — no one talks about it. Sadly, Lirac has always been in the shadow of the throne, but among fine wine professionals, it remains the Undercover King for its outstanding quality and value. My favorite is from one of our Rockstars of the Rhône, Gérald Lafont.