2009 Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken - Zilliken Riesling Feinherb
Zilliken was established in 1742. Maintenance of traditions and the high standards of the estate’s wines have had a strong influence on the work of Hanno Zilliken, the cellar master here since 1976 and proprietor since 1981. The estate have the deepest cellar on the Saar, with three levels below ground, and the wines are fermented and matured in German oak under optimum aging conditions. The natural humidity content is so high that stalactites are growing from the ceiling. For Hanno, though, the work in the cellar is secondary. He believes “the complete potential is within the vineyard itself. No wine can ever surpass what the soil, the vine and climate give it.” These Saarburger wines exhibit a subtle “dusty” terroir character when young, incredible fineness of detail, gentle textures and excellent aging potential.
An iris, white peach, and crushed stone-scented 10.5% alcohol 2009 Saarburger Riesling feinherb from the Rausch introduces a level of intricacy and interplay of flavors as well as sheer juiciness not witnessed in any of the wines that preceded it in this year's line-up. Smoke, crushed stone, fruit pit piquancy, bittersweet liquid floral perfume, nut oils, and pit fruits dance light-footedly on a creamy yet refreshing palate. This wine will give both your imagination and salivary glands a work-out (or should I write "milking"?) and despite 18 grams residual sugar, it can honestly be called "dry;" yet its hidden sweetness will pay dividends in versatility over the next dozen or more years.